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| SELF - HELP (HOW YOU CAN KEEP YOUR CAR'S PAINT IN TOP CONDITION) |
General Discussion
Automotive paint is more than just a pretty colour with shiny stuff on top - it is a microscopically thin barrier between the metal panels and the big bad world outside, without which your car would look pretty shabby in a short space of time. Modern automotive finishes are predominantly '2-pak' (catalytically hardened paint, as opposed to 'acrylic' which is solvent-based and much less durable), and may be 'Clear over base' - which is a high-gloss 2-pak clear coat over a solvent- or water-based colour (base) coat,or '2K solid' which is a high-gloss solid colour coat. Metallic and pearl (mica) colours will always have a clear coat applied over the top to provide a high-gloss lustre; the clear coat usually has Ultra-Violet stabilisers to retard oxidation.Even with UV stabilisers, the sun's rays will eventually oxidise paint over time, causing it to go dull and powdery. The surface will become microscopically pitted, which then traps dirt and corrosive contaminants, which if allowed to remain on the paint will further accelerate its deterioration.So What Can I Do to Keep My Car Looking Good?
Always garage your can when not in use; the less time the car spends out in the sun and weather, the longer the paint will remain shiny.Be wary of using fabric car covers if you do not have a garage; if not properly secured during strong winds, the flapping of the cover can damage your paint. Also, putting a cover on a car which is dirty can cause the dirt to be ground into the paint with the movement of the cover. If you are going to use a car cover, be prepared to pay a little more for a good quality one with a soft fabric inside. DON'T USE A $5.00 BLUE PLASTIC TARPAULIN!!Wash your car regularly to remove road grime, surface contaminants such as industrial fall-out, tree sap, bird droppings, bug splatters, tar, dust etc. Regularly wash the brake dust off your alloy wheels - if left on for extended periods, especially during wet weather, this can etch into the paint or polished surfaces and cause permanent discolouration or dulling of the finish.Do not use harsh household detergents or washing-up liquid; do not attempt to scrub off contaminants such as bird droppings with abrasive scourers (soak with a soft sponge soaked with warm water and a good quality car shampoo, then gently wipe off once the stain has softened).Every three months or so apply a good quality surface wax to provide an extra barrier between the paint and the weather.Don't use a cutting type polish unless the paint surface is becoming dull and water no longer beads on the surface; "cutting and polishing" is exactly that - cutting a few microns of paint off the top to remove the oxidised and pitted surface, then polishing to restore the original lustre. Excessive cutting and polishing will eventually remove all the paint, leaving a dull and blotchy (and soon to be rusty) finish. |
| WHAT DO I DO IF MY PAINT IS DAMAGED? |
Scratches
If you wet the scratch and it seems to disappear, this means that the scratch is superficial and has not gone through the clear coat. Usually these sort of scratches can be removed by careful cutting and polishing. However, it is quite easy to cut right through the clear coat, which will leave a dull patch of exposed base coat, so be careful if attempting to fix scratches yourself. Once the clear coat has been breached, the only way to fix the problem is to repaint the area.If you can catch your fingernail in the scratch, generally it will be too deep to cut and polish out. Most deliberately inflicted key scratches, for example, need to be repaired by either blocking (cutting) the surface layer down to the bottom of the scratch to remove it, or alternatively filling the scratch with stop putty (an air-dry filling compound) or 2K polyester putty; after carefully sanding the filler back to the original surface level, the area must be repainted.Stone Chips
Small chips can generally be repaired to a satisfactory appearance by using factory or dealer-supplied touch-up paint. This will be acrylic (solvent-based) paint which will be a reasonable match for the original paint. Ensure the paint is well-shaken to distribute the metallic or mica/pearl particles uniformly throughout the paint before applying, and use a very fine Size 0 or Size 1 art brush to drop the paint directly into the centre of the chip. Clean the bottom of the chip with a cotton bud dipped in solvent (automotive thinners, acetone (nail polish remover) or methylated spirits will do) before applying paint.It is virtually impossible to repair large chips to a satisfactory standard using this method, except perhaps on white paint; most metallic and pearl paints can only be effectively replicated by spraying and clear-coating.Badly stone-chipped bonnets and bumpers will not be able to be repaired to an invisible standard using a chip repair process; however it is better to put something on the chip (even clear nail polish is better than nothing) to prevent ingress of moisture, which will quickly lead to rust and further delaimination of the paint around the area of the chip.Remember nearly all bumpers these days are plastic; stone chips on bumpers will not get any worse if ignored, nor will the bumper be adversely affected. Scuffs and Scrapes
Scuffs and scrapes on bumpers and panels will usually need to be repaired using body filler and then repainted to match the original finish. Brush touching is only useful to provide short-term protection of any exposed metal surface to prevent corrosion. |
| SO I'VE DONE WHAT I CAN, AND IT STILL LOOKS HORRIBLE! |
Solution: Go to the Contact Us page to request an obligation-free quote for a professional, on-site repair with a LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| NO POINT AGONISING OVER IT - CALL a FRIENDLY ChipsAdelaide endorsed technician to carry out a professional appraisal and quotation for repair! |
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